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| My wing
Table is 5/8" thick aluminum plate 12 feet long. I just lucked
into getting one. Laser alligned wing jig forms in place. |
This is a cool feeling to finally see the wing taking shape. |
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| Wing Spar webbing in
place. On the business end of the Dewalt drill you can see a
sanding tool I turned on my lathe then covered with sandpapaer to carve out wing bolt hole ports. This made the
ports uniform and easy to shape. |
All wing parts microed in
place and wing spar webbing before laying up the wing spar. Note popcicle sticks holding things straight . Taped
end holds a piece of wing foam in place. |
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| Wing is laser straight and skined. Green color is the peel ply fabric. Shown prior cure. | "Surgery" completed on wing root. Ready for glassing then hardware. |
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| Tom Holt my "Right Wing" friend glassing his own aileron webbing. He does nice work. |
My aileron cutout prior glassing. |
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| Aileron hinges drilled and ready for alodine then installation.
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Click Bonds in place hidden under
the fiberglass skin. These will tie down the aileron
hinges. Low drag parts. 1200 lbs. shear strength. |
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Nice bearings and crank for ailerons. |
Ailerons working smoothly. Wings can flap now. Could this actually fly? |
What I learned: Sorry, I have no pictures of foam being cut. But, I did actually cut my own with my own hot knife. Don't assume all blocks of foam are the same thickness. Foam from Aircraft Spruce and Wicks is not the same. This assumption helped me screw up a part or two. The thicker pieces are better because fewer parts will need to be pieced together. I used "masonite" for my wing templates. I lined the outside edge of them with aluminum foil tape. This helped the hot knife cut the foam smoothly without getting hung up and burning into the wing templates. This worked well. I was too impatient to get the laser cut steel ones. (they were being used) It's a real thrill to finally see wings cut and assembled from foam. I learned that I prefer sanding bondo off of my parts rather than sanding hot glue. Hot glue leaves residue that can't be painted if not sanded off well. The sander develops heat which just remelts the hot glue. At least bondo can be painted. I learned that all aluminum parts should be alodined. This allows painting and it protects the surfaces. Also, I have my "showy" aluminum parts anodized a deep blue color. | ||