|
|
|
|||
| First part of nosebox with hardpoints installed and glassed in.
|
Laser alligned nosegear with Steve Wrights retracts. Additional ribbing on F22. |
 |
 |
|||
| I made this box to level the
"nose plate" Squared up and laser leveled. The corner cutout
allowed me to glass it all together with BID tapes. |
Matco Brake supports
mounted along side of nose gear swivel
box. Shape familier?
Beer bottle tops were used for the mold. I don't drink. |
 |
 |
|||
| Rudder/Brake pedals mounted from the top. Showing bearing mount. | Bearing blocks on the ends are rigid and add strength to F22. |
 |
 |
|||
| Dennis Oelmann makes nice powder coated rudder pedals. I will be adding some sort of bearing to the center section. Movement aint bad. | Looking straight on. Nose Rudder/Brake assembly. |
 |
 |
|||
| Driver view
of pedals hanging from top. Note nose compartment and flat
floor. No obstructions on floor and smooth controls. I'm
liking this!
|
Nose NACA inlet mold forms shown in
various stages. I used the PVC pipe to mold the outlet. The
inlet shape was done on my CAD system. |
 |
 |
|||
|
Cutout for NACA inlet. |
Spring loaded nose lamp assembly. Easy to replace shock mounted. The pollished aluminum assembly is designed to light forward and down. |
 |
 |
|||
| Nose landing light mount spring holds
the lamp assembly into it's forward foothold and the clamp holds it in
place also. 150 Watt system. Dual lamps.
|
Landing lights in place. |
|
|
|||
| Headlamp cooling ducts. Also there
are filtered inlet ducts directed at the aluminum lamp assembly.
Lamps are rated for 2000hrs when cooled.
|
Landing light cooling fan is
ready to install. It is lightweight and yet will cool the lamps
and provide some heat for the cabin and extend lamp life. |
 |
 |
|||
|
Landing light lens. |
We got lights in the boat! Nose bumper is 15+ layers of Kevlar shaped into a teardrop.
|
 |
 |
|||
| Masonite forms level and ready to hot
wire nose shape. Using preferred foam. Cutting it this way
is easier than sanding and it is more uniform. |
Nose is being shaped. Tip looks "ducky" I end up fixing that. |
 |
 |
|||
| Front wheel door showing spring
closing mechanism. The bushing and snubber softtens actuation
while moving smartly. It closes nicely. |
Forward hatch doors shown before attachment The nose is 7" longer than the plans.
|
|
 |
|||
| Still some shaping effort required. Note NACA scoop. Kevlar used where the color is yellow. |
Ready to roll onto another chapter. |
| What I learned: Modifications take longer. They are fun, and make the work enjoyable when they work out but they take extra time. NEVER use aluminum foil for a mold. I don't know what I was thinking. The fiberglass sticks to it very well. I used it on the wheel well mold and it was a pain removing it all. I could have kept it on but I wanted it all off. Duct tape makes a much better mold release. My NACA scoops needed a flat insert to dress them up and look better. They were too deep so I added a foam piece inside of it and it looks much better. I then ran reversed dryvac air past it and the cabin airflow in was nice. I guess it actually depends on air exiting the cabin air as well. Our EAA chapter 58 had George Happ, the owner of Matco Brakes give a presentation and demonstration on Matco Brake installation. It is important to get a 2 1/2 to one mechanical advantage on the brakes to get the proper pressure on the brakes. Mine is not that high as shown. I'm working on this. JD from Infinity Aerospace was also quick to point this out. I only need to be told something twice. Matco brake installation guide. | ||