Chapter 10
Canard Construction
         Core Templates
        I built a flat and level 12 foot table to build my canard on.
First foam piece ready for hotwiring.  Leveled and pinned template shown.
I used 1/16" aircraft plywood from a local hobby store.  Sanded smooth.
  Allignment and pieced together.
         Dowel Pins
  Cut foam is microed together and alligned straight.  Sometimes I wish my canard had dihedral rather than being straight and flat.
 These are 1/4" Dowels which are used to pin the leading edge to the canard.  Used to allow creation of the spar cap.  I turned these on my lathe.
  Lift tabs and inserts
         inserts and lift tab insertion  
  Inserts and lift tabs.  I got these from Brock Mfg.  Riveted myself.    Jig to form inserts into the canard.  Made from printed circuit material.
  canard templates
         Canard Spar in Foam
                          Canard checking templates F and E.                               Spar laid up in the canard trough
  canard getting skin    Canard hinge points
                                        Canard gets it's skin.   PVC foam insets shown which are used to make strong hinge attach points.
  canard end          Canard Complete
  The canard is complete and awaits it's elevators and the cool curvy tips.           The canard is straight and level.       Way strong and smooth.

      I made my own hotwire saw by shaping a bow cut out of pressboard and stretching a wire across the span of it and over some aluminum  cable guides I had turned on my lathe.  I used .030 inconnel wire that I had gotten from Aircraft Spruce. The wire was held tight by a screen door type spring and the other end has a turnbuckle to adjust the range of tightness.   I already had an isolated variable transformer.  With this I am able to get good temperature control.  With
just a little practice you can become an expert wing cutter. 

What I learned:
The trick in cutting foam with a hot wire is to maintain a good tension and keep a steady flow when cutting.  The template material you use should be made of something that wont easily melt or burn.  1/16" burch plywood worked for me as long as the wire was not too hot.  I learned that I could use the same metal tape that I used earlier to make my antennas (antennae) along the edge of the template.  It would rapidly spread the heat and not burn the template.  The wire moves more smoothly that way. 

Errors you make when working with fiberglass can easily be corrected.  Wayne Hicks helped me with a problem I had with the fit of the trailing edge.  I questioned Nat Puffer about some concerns I had with the shape of the canard.  He agreed that it would not have a negative affect.   I worked with the Canard until I was happy with it's shape.  The user group is always a great source of information and help for any question you have.

I was amazed by the strength of the Canard after the creation of the spar cap. 

It was during this time that I began to want to see many Cozy aircraft to see how other peoples parts compared.  I feel good about the strength of the Canard.